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Posts with tag « designer-for-tomorrow »

Daft Punk and Mermaids

Events

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Sweaty, with two toothpaste stains and greasy hair because I overslept that morning - that was yesterday's fashion week look, while my camera and I were politely pushing past 6 foot women in stilettos. The tent and all its theatrical self-enactment is one number too big for me. Most of the time Fashion Week feels like overdosing on chocolate. "Zu viel des Guten" as we would say in German. I always remind myself of the fact that I am there to capture the moment, document the collections, meet some friends and then get the fuck out of there. To put it bluntly. As each season passes, I find myself leaving the tent, or rather the Chanel-perfumed sauna earlier, quickly squeezing past the barriers and going straight to Starbucks for my Java Chip Frappuccino. There is no point in standing in line for a sip of Jules Mumm.

I know this text is overflowing with irony and sarcasm and you have most likely heard it before but I really can't help but want to avoid the circus at all costs. It drains the magic out of the shows, which deserve far more attention than the prancing around outside or the thunderstorm of flashing cameras that make the whole runway light up like the 4th of July because everyone is suffering from front-row mania.

BUT to slightly more pressing matters: what a show. The DfT Award Show never disappoints and will always remain a personal highlight of mine. Jamie Wei Huang may not have won but her Daft-Punk-entourage of models that paraded down the catwalk with reflecting lampshades and 10-kilo-heavy encrusted garments did cause slight breathing problems. Iona Ciolacu's tennis-playing mermaid collection came out as a well-deserved winner and was my second favourite collection. I think I may have to go on a search for a perspex and raffia visor.

Waking Up The Artist

Photodiaries

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Fashion Week has begun and my first stop was yesterday's Designer for Tomorrow fitting, which took place in the Urban Spree Gallery. I was really impressed by the five collections and the design diversity. I am always fascinated by what the ideas and inspirations, the heartbeat of the collections are, some being widely abstract and personal, while others are rooted in what is tangible and are a reflection of a concrete time.

Ultimately, art is self-expression and I am convinced that we all have an artist slumbering within us, yet only some are able to wake him or her up.

The modern vagabond that listens to David Bowie and Tom Waits is most certainly wearing Katy Clark’s deconstructed designs, made from fabric mixtures such as wool and flannel, originating straight from the heart of Glasgow. The models appeared to be floating in her draped, cut-out and oversized silhouettes, which formed the collection titled "Sunday Desperados".

My personal favourite was Jamie Wei Huang’s "Light Space" collection, which was heavily influenced by geometric forms, 3D and Op Art. Plastic, metal, silk, ceramic and glass were combined to create fabric sculptures weighing several kilos. The result was a little bit of 90s, Taiwan and a demure version of Princess Leia.

Hannah Kuklinski’s hardcore grandma knits reminded me of Alexander Wang’s wool and silk collection taken to the next level through the use of exaggerated forms and bacteria prints. Titled "Wenn Hände müde Hörnchen sehen", it becomes clear that randomness is most likely one of her most endearing personality traits, which is also humorously incorporated in her designs. How can you not love someone that states that her 2013 fashion piece would be selfknitted colourful socks.

Annalena Skörl Maul’s streetart-meets-grandma’s-crochet-knitting inspirations resulted in an innovative menswear collection titled "Be Boy" that has blown the traditional tailored suit out of proportion and reinvented it. Crochet bow ties and ties are combined with balloon-pant chinos. The man wearing these pieces is skateboarding to his advertising job on a crochet-skateboard listening to A Tribe Called Quest followed by Elton John's "Your Song". I’m not kidding.

Iona Ciolacu Miron "Paradox" collection was the most feminine one with very strong proportions, personally whisking me away into an underwater world where the skirts transformed the models into visor wearing mermaids. The scale-like dress and skirt-folds coupled with the sea-world and nature-inspired silk prints gave this collection a strong architectural and yet mythological touch.

Anima

Events

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My laptop is finally back up and running. Unfortunately I lost the rest of my photos of the fitting but thankfully these were still on my camera and I have been dying to share them with you. Honestly, seeing this collection up close was one of the most wonderful things to have ever happened to me since I started blogging. A collection like this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience so intimately. There's not much to say except that I'd like to let the pictures do the talking. Thank you again to P&C for inviting me. I will never forget it!

Leandro Cano

Events

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                                                                         Ninth and tenth photo by P&C (edited by me)

Apple may have magnetic charging cables but that still did not stop my laptop from crashing to the floor after I tripped over that line of death. A classic move. I have so many more photos tucked securely away on my harddrive from the fitting and the catwalk show that I am unable to retrieve. I'm not lying when I say I am pretty close to crying but at least I was able to put some on a USB stick before my computer gave up. 

There is not much more I can say about this collection, titled Anima, other than that it is one of the most jawdropping, artistic endeavours that I have ever witnessed. Leandro's collection is on the same, seemingly unattainable level as Alexander McQueen both in terms of intricacy and complexity.  

When the final model stepped out on the catwalk in a flower and forest patterned ballgown featuring countless porcelain embroidery I could hear the entire audience letting out a gasp. People were putting their hands in front of their mouths in complete awe. Needless to say, he received a standing ovation and loud cheering at the end, resulting in him not being able to walk down the catwalk for the customary bow because he was utterly overwhelmed. He is, without a doubt  one of the most talented and promising designers of, dare I say, this century.

A mix of romance, nostalgia and melancholia: the models floated down the runway on a bed of swirling fog, which perfectly reflected the angel of death, Azrael, who served as the inspiration for Anima. Guiding the souls on their final journey, his white brilliance as well as his dark presence were noticeable throughout the entire collection, which featured strong, architectural lines, porcelain adornment, thick crochet, PVC, intricate weaving, floral and forest patterns as well as lots of white and dark purple.

I hope my computer will be fixed ASAP so I can show you the remainder of the collection. 

P.S. For some reason my photos do not appear as sharp as they do before the upload. I'm trying to fix this.

Designer for Tomorrow

Photodiaries

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This week has been so busy and I have actually missed almost everything I had planned to attend for Berlin Fashion Week but sometimes plans don't work out the way you think they will. I did get to go to the two things that I was most definitely not going to miss: the Designer for Tomorrow Fitting and Bread & Butter.

The five finalists for the Designer for Tomorrow Award practiced with their models on Tuesday morning with Rick Genest showing up unexpectedly to walk for Siddharta Anselm Meyer. Unfortunately he did not walk at the actual Award Ceremony but it was cool seeing him in person (I was too damn shy to take a picture!).

The detail, the craftsmanship and the concepts were truly brilliant and all very different from each other, which made this years DfT even more interesting. From Camilla Salgaard Nielsens all-black, couture creations, Ramil Makinanos Henry VIII on acid collection, Siddharta Anselm Meyers recycled couture, Laura Williams' expedition inspired outerwear to the winner's, Leandro Canos' 3D knit and leather pleated pieces it was an amazing opportunity to see each detail up close. 

It was insanely hectic and there were about ten photographers running around shoving their giant lenses in front of me but I managed to chat with each designer and throw myself in the mass of models and the press to take some photos for you. Laura Williams (one of the finalists) lovely person, we chatted for ages about her collection, London, my Isabel Marant jacket (lol) and Berlin.

 

Was die Fashion Week angeht habe ich es geschafft dieses Mal so ziemlich alles zu verpassen, dass ich mir in meinen Terminkalender gekritzelt habe. Da ich ja vollzeit Arbeite und mir auch nicht freinehmen konnte, bin ich lediglich auf die zwei (für mich) wichtigsten Events gegangen, das Designer for Tomorrow Fitting und die Bread & Butter Messe, wo ich aber auch nur ein paar Stunden verbringen konnte. Die Preisverleihung musste ich leider verpassen aber da hätte ich sowieso nicht mit den Designern so intensiv sprechen weder anständige Nahaufnahmen machen können.
Am Dienstag wurde geprobt. Ein konstanter Andrang von Models und Presse bedeutete ein Ringen um Fotos. Rick Genest tauchte auch unerwartet auf, da Siddharta Anselm Meyer mehr männliche Models brauchte doch natürlich habe ich mich nicht getraut ein Foto von ihm zu machen. Verdammt!
Die Kollektionen der fünf Finalisten, Camilla Salgaard Nielsen, Ramil Makinano, Siddharta Anselm Meyer, Laura Williams und Leandro Canos waren unglaublich beindruckend. Die Details, die krasse Handwerkskunst und die sehr unterschiedlichen Konzepte haben den diesjerigen DfT Wettbewerb noch interessanter wirken lassen. Besonders gefallen haben mir Ramil Makinanos neon Kreationen, die mich an Heinrich VIII auf LSD denken ließen. Gewonnen hat die 3D Kollektion des Spaniers Leandro Canos und ich finde, dass er diesen Preis auch wirklich verdient hat.
Am süßesten fand ich aber die Londoner Designerin Laura Williams. Sie hat mich gleich wegen meiner Jacke ausgefragt, ich trug eine von Isabel Marant, und dann haben wir noch ewig über ihre Kollektion, London und Berlin gequatscht.